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マニラからイロイロ、そしてロハス

タイトルのとおりのルートで、またフィールドに「帰って」きた。

今回は約3ヶ月ぶりなので、それほど問題なく言葉を思い出しつつある。イロイロのイロンゴとロハスのヒリガイノンは、微細な語彙の違いを除いてほぼ同じ言語なのだが、話し方の速度が前者は非常にゆっくりで後者が早口なのが対照的だ。ロハス育ち(笑)の僕には、優しく響くイロンゴより、少しきつめのヒリガイノンの方が、やはり聞いていてなじみがある。

そんなマニアックなフィールド感覚に思い巡らす僕の隣には、そろそろフィリピン滞在一週間になるバスケマンがいる。強烈なマニラの洗礼を受け少し元気がなかった彼だけど、それでも果敢に戦跡の島コレヒドールで調査を試みて、次第に自分のペースをつかみ始めたようだ。日本で心配しているだろうバスケマン関係者たち、彼は元気でがんばってますよ。

昨日はイロイロで、中央大学からの学部留学生Mさんとお会いした。まだイロイロに来て3ヶ月しか経っていないのに、彼女のイロンゴはとても上達していて、台風やデング熱などトラブルを乗り越えながら留学生活をすばらしく実りのあるものにしているようだった。そして、バスケマンはそんな彼女からとても刺激を受けていたようだ。フィリピン名物のストリート・バスケにも挑戦して、足を怪我するくらいに走り回っていた(笑)。

今日、ロハスに到着して僕はいつもの滞在先へ。一緒に泊まることも考えたが、やはりフィリピン人に囲まれた一人だけのホームステイを経験してほしいと思い、調査助手のBにお願いして彼を数日間預けることにした。言語によるコミュニケーションが失敗しても、文化の違いに驚いても、それでも他者と関わることはできるし、そうしなければ僕たちはこのグローバル・ワールドで生きていくことはできない。大学ではずっと繰り返してきた僕のささやかな信条を、まさに現地で体感してもらうことができれば。

バスケマンの話ばかり書いているようだけれど、彼が語ることと尋ねることの全てが、実は僕にとっての大きな学びになっていると付け加えておく。フィリピンに通い始めて約10年、すっかり内面化・身体化されて意識することのなかったこの場所の「他者性」が、バスケマンの経験を通じて再び僕の前に立ち現れてくる。彼の驚きに僕がシンクロするプロセスで、この場所のこの人たちがすばらしく面白い奴らだってことを改めて実感する。フィールドワークがゼミ生たちにとって素敵なものであることばかりを願ってきたけれど、彼/女たちのフィールド話を聞くことで僕自身が擬似フィールドワークを経験しているのではないか、そんな気がしてきた。

とりあえず今夜はホストファミリーとゆっくり過ごそう。そして明日からしばらく、僕が長い時間を過ごしたこの町を、バスケマンと一緒に追体験しようと思う。まだまだフィールドワークは序盤戦。

1

バスケマン、コレヒドール島で戦争の歴史についてインタヴュー。

2

ストリートバスケ中のバスケマン。

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